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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Before the Bonnet Goes Back On

Here's a Sunday afternoon question.
What are the things you would do do before the crocodile bonnet goes on, that I haven't thought of?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Ensure you have your safety helmet / hard hat available !!
Tim C

Things at the back near the bulkhead. heater box works well including the matrix. related to the battery and terminals. brake and clutch master cylinder adjustment/replacement. Oil the bonnet hinges.
Bob Beaumont

I fitted a single multiplug into the wiring harness feeding to the bonnet on my frogeye. Not strictly necessary before putting bonnet back on, but it would be easier. It means I just have the one plug to disconnect, rather than disconnecting all of the various lights and indicators separately when I feel the urge to remove the bonnet.
GuyW

Great suggestions - thank you. I'm so dim that it didn't occur to me to concentrate on the bits nearest the hinges (including the hinges), so thank you for that, Bob.
Where did you get the multiplug from, Guy? That's such a good idea. I took pictures and made notes when I disconnected, but everything electrical frightens me.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Nick, I did the same as Guy and fitted a multi way connector (6 way I think - sidelights, dip, main beam, flashers left, flashers right and earth). Mine is a 6.3 mm blade type from Auto Electrical Supplies. You need a crimping tool.
Bill B

Thanks Bill. Looks like just the thing. I always find it ridiculous to unplug a bullet by pulling on the cable. And only £1.12 plus VAT.

Any tips on replacing the bonnet? I last did it by roping the front centre to a garage roof truss and the same for the rear corners but with bungees. But I was only about 70 then, with all the confidence of youth.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

I lifted and lowered the bonnet with 2 ropes. One to front centre over a pulley fixed to a roof beam and a second rope, also over a pulley. Lots of blanket padding over the scuttle! That was after it was in nice new paint. Before that I just stood at the front and lifted it into position, as one would with a later type bonnet.

The other thing I found worthwhile was to drill a pilot hole through each hinge plate into the bonnet platform part. After having adjusted and aligned the bonnet that is. Then when refitting put a pin or self tapper into the pilot hole to get the exact positioning again.
GuyW

Fortunately many years ago I found out what a pain it is removing the steel Frogeye bonnet and made myself an engine crane short enough to lift the engine out without disturbing the bonnet.

However others might want to try the ‘two man lift’.

Remove the axis bolts from the hinges under the bulkhead. With a man each side lift the bonnet away in an upward curve to bring the hinge out and under in its bulkhead / under bonnet box.

Fitting is the reversal so lift and apply the hinges to their boxes in a scooping motion. The bonnet is now returned in its original alignment and the axis bolts returned to their respective positions.
Alan Anstead

Very interesting. I wish I'd put screws through the hinge and bonnet plates. But I'm relying on masking tape, cut through at the hinge plate edges.

I love the use of bungees, though. If you get the tension right, the back edge of the bonnet rises gently as you take the last bolts out. Putting it back, the back edge hovers above the hinges, and you just pull it gently down and put the bolts in. Lots of bedding on the windscreen and scuttle, though, in case the angle of the front rope isn't spot on.

Alan, I wish I'd thought of releasing the hinges. I might not have done it, but I wish I'd thought of it.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

I like the bungee idea. The thought of that cumbersome bonnet hovering gracefully above the hinges, ballerina like, and awaiting the thrust of that first hinge bolt - well, what can surpass that!

I too have tried undoing the hinges from beneath the scuttle but I just found access awkward to say the least. I did get the bolts out, but relocating them defeated me, working alone.

I do like Alan's low profile lifting crane. I bet that has paid for itself, metaphorically speaking, many times over in saved stress, hassle and time.
GuyW

I use the Axis bolts method. Saves all the realigning!
Does require 2 people though.
I also have a hoist that fits under the bonnet to fish out the engine. I remove the two struts and wipers and lift the bonnet higher, carefully avoiding damaging the the scuttle. I use two strong props to hold the bonnet up.
Bob Beaumont

Just wanted to tell Guy that the bungee method was a right pain this time. I spent hours realigning ropes and grovelling in the voracious jaws.
SWMBO says I am grown timorous in old age, lacking the confidence she once so valued.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

This has got me foxed. I lined up the hinge/bonnet connections to the exact positions of my masking tape, and although the bonnet/scuttle gap is quite small, it lifts and lowers without hitting anything.
But the two cones at the front are too far forward to fit into their holes.
The bonnet has spent two months sitting on its back end - froglamps facing the ceiling - which shouldn't allow it to change shape that way . . . should it?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

This thread was discussed between 30/08/2026 and 08/09/2026

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.