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MG MGA - It started, and some questions

My 17 year old son and I have been working on our 58 MGA for the last 5 months.

Rust repaires to all four fenders, new paint and chrome, new wiring harness (negative ground) and a whole lot more including whidshield glass.

Today was the first time since we started that we started her up, and she ran great, alittle rough, but the sound was music to my ears.

The only real problems were

1. The fuel pump continues to run (can't get it to shut off) no signs of leaks. The pump was put on by the PO. Solid state electronics.

2. In reattaching the chock cable I must be doing something wrong. The end of the sheathing doen't seem to be clamped anywhere. And the connection seem to be under alot of tension, the cable won't stay out. Different type of carbs then I am used to on my tr6. Any ideas?

This has been a great father and son project, my son has learned so much during this time, Great experience..

Russell
R Egge

Russel. Cannot help on the choke cable problem. On the fuel pump, if it is of the "Fawcet" type--the little square box types, it clicks all the time. Nothing to worry about. My daughter's MGB has this type of pump and it has worked well for the seven years we have owned the car. Les
Les Bengtson

Russell,

Is it an original type SU fuel pump? Sounds like an aftermarket one in which case its operating as designed. Annoying is normal! (aftermarket is generaly square whereas the SU is larger and cylindrical) If you have original and no leaks (check where the float bowl connects to the main carb body--underside) then there's may be an internal issue with the pump but that doesn't sound likely if the car is running. Will leave choke issue to more qualified as my set up is a bit different. Glad you're having fun!

Safety Fast!

Paul
Paul Hanley

Hi Russel. Regarding the choke linkage. There should be a sheet metal choke bracket bolted to the top of the intake manifold. At the end of the bracket is a metal cube, with a small hole in the center of the top face. The outer sheath of the choke cable gets inserted into this hole, and is a friction fit. The inner wire choke cable needs to be adjusted so that when the choke knob is pushed in towards the dashboard, that the choke levers are fully relaxed (all the way down) When the choke knob is pulled out to it's fullest extent, it should pull the carb choke levers up as high as they will go. To get the choke cable to be able to lock, when partially pulled out, you need to give the inner choke cable a half turn clockwise, before tightening the small bolt that locks the inner cable into position. Hope you can understand my explanation, and that it helps! Cheers. Glenn
Glenn

If it is an SU pump, then if it continues to tick and there are no fuel leaks and the engine is not running then it may mean that there is an air leak in the pump. It's pretty straightforeward to disassemble and replace all the innerds.

dan
Dan Smithers

Hi Russell,

My 16 year old son and I have enjoyed tinkering with our 57 roadster too! I had a similar situation with my fuel pump after my wiring harness install. After posting the problem on this great forum, someone asked about my fuses. It turns out I had put a single fuse between two fuse holders and "hot wired" my fuel pump. I just thought that if you never saw your fuse block set up correctly, you may have made the same mistake I did.
Good Luck!

KC
Kelly

This thread was discussed on 29/11/2004

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