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MG MGA - Rear end banjo studs

I have a stripped stud on my banjo casing (it happens to be the very bottom one, so I now have drips from both ends of the car!). I need to buy a helicoil kit. Does anyone know whether the stud thread is coarse or fine and what the correct size is?
Dan Barton

I have a spare banjo rear end. Is it easy to removed these studs? If so I will do that and send them to you, for the cost mailing.

Ray
Ray Ammeter

Dan.. Just pull out (unscrew) the stripped stud and take it to your local NAPA dealer. He will have the stud needed.
conrad sanders

Ray and Conrad; I believe that it is the banjo that is stripped rather than the stud. I have ordered a couple of new studs which is no problem. I will need to insert a helicoil in the banjo and unfortunately the car is in my Florida home and I am now back in New York so it is not easy to pull out the stud to get the correct size. I was just hoping that someone would have one lying around that they could measure for me so that I could be all prepared to fix the problem on my next trip south at Christmas.
Dan Barton

The Parts Manual H.1 shows these as being bolts with the head inside the case rather than studs. The only readily accessible rear end I have is a 3.9 early MGB and after seeing this I am hesitant to try to turn one out. It looks like they might have to come out from inside the case.
John DeWolf

If we're talking about the original banjo-type axle case, the diff-carrier studs are the flat-headed, splined-body type of stud, similar in form (tho' not size) to the wheel studs used on disc-wheel cars.

JdeW is correct; they are fitted from inside the case. HTH.
A. W. Risk

This is really interesting. Firstly, Victoria British show a regular stud in their catalogue and indeed I ordered a couple of these - it will be interesting to see what they send.

Secondly, I have had a steady drip from the rear axle. I had assumed that it was coming from the drain plug, but when I climbed under the car on Sunday I could see the source was the very lowest nut on the banjo. When I tried to tighten the nut it just turned as though the thread had stripped on the stud. I tried to turn out the stud by attaching a second nut etc, but it would not have it. So it looks like you are right. Perhaps nothing is stripped but instead the flat headed bolt is turning in the case. Which leaves two questions - why is the nut turning in the case and how do I get it tight without taking the entire rear end apart? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Dan Barton

Dan,

The item is a bolt with splines just below the head to prevent it from turning. You cannot change it without removing the differential assembly.
However you can try a few things before pulling out the differential.
Does the bolt protrude the same distance as the others? Ensure that it has not moved rearwards, thus reducing the spline's grip.
Try fitting two nuts and pull on the outer nut with a vice grips while tightening the inner nut.
Is there room to drill a hole in the end of the bolt so that you can use a drill bit as a cross piece to hold it from turning while you tighten the nut.
My Service Parts List (mga twin cam) shows the bolt as a special type but the nut is a standard nut FNZ 105, which is a hexagon nut, 5/16" UNF, standard strength (not high tensile), zinc plated.
Therefore the threads of the nut and bolt are 5/16" UNF.
If you want a list of standard BMC fasteners there is one at:

http://www.angelfire.com/amiga/mga/index.html

(The free of charge Adobe Acrobat Reader program is required on your computer).

Mick
Mick Anderson

Dan, can you cut a straight slot across the stud end for a screwdriver blade? Once you get some tightness on the nut it should start to hold at the inside head.
Art

Mick:

This special type of bolt is called a stud:

Stud, Gear Carrier, 2A7226 (AKD 1215)

Alex
A. W. Risk

Alex,
Mick Anderson

Sorry for sending a blank message!

Alex,

I agree that the BMC Service Parts List calls it a stud, but I do not follow their strange habits (errors?). If a fastener has a head on one end and a thread on the other end I call it a bolt. If it is threaded on both ends I call it a stud.
I am only trying to prevent confusion.

Mick
Mick Anderson

The Parts List calls it a 'bolt'(2A7226). They call the one in the disc wheel hub wheel a 'stud'(1G7435) and the one in the wire wheel hub a 'bolt'(ATB7201). It seem that if it takes a regular nut it is a bolt and if it has a wheel nut on it, it is a stud, the reasoning I would guess, being that a wheel nut is not a part of the fastener assembly, but a separate wheel holding device that is screwed onto a stud.
John DeWolf

Mick, I know that there is room to get another nut on the stud, bolt or whatever it is called. When I get back to Florida in a couple of weeks I will give it a try and let you all know. I can try both methods suggested although the idea of drilling a horizonal hole might be difficult but should be the most positive. Failing this, I guess that I could just grab the end with grips and tighten the nut. It would destroy the thread on the end of the stud, but I would have nothing to lose since if that final drastic step failed, I would have to pull the diff anyway. What do you all think?

Dan
Dan Barton

Dan; There is one other way to hold that Bolt-Stud or whatever you call it. It will require two nuts. One which you intend to leave on the stud and one other. On the second nut take a hack-saw and cut 1/2 way through the nut (outside to inside.) This is then screwed on after you put the first nut in place, Then to tighten the main nut you put a large pair of vice-grips on the split nut and then lock them up. This will hold the stud without doing any damage to it at all.Then tighten the main nut and afterwards remove vice-grips and split nut. This works on many sizes of bolts and studs.
Sandy Sanders
Hudson Florida
WHAT PART ARE YOU IN?
conrad sanders

Sandy, Good idea. I had a similar thought that I would drill a hole through a nut on the bench and then use it as a guide to drill through the stud. But your way might be easier.

Dan, Bonita Springs
Dan Barton

Sandy,
That's a good trick! There are stud puller/drivers which use threaded collets, but they are way pricey and cumbersome. For additional grip on tight studs, you could Loctite the split nut on, then after removing the Vgrip, insert a screwdriver in the cut to get it off.
FRM
http://www.usachoice.net/gofanu
FR Millmore

This thread was discussed between 29/11/2004 and 01/12/2004

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.