Technical Bull from Buffalo
by Jim Pelletterie, Buffalo Octagon Association

(Q): When I took my MGB in for a state inspection I found that both my steering rack boots are ripped and do not appear to have lubricant left in them The shaft is also covered in grit. Should I get a rebuilt unit?
(A): This is another one of those common problems suffered as over time all rubber parts will fail. That's why you need to inspect these items more often. A rebuilt rack and pinion is somewhat expensive, so I suggest that you disassemble the unit, clean and renew the pinion shaft seal and the two rubber boots (gaiters). Once the rack is removed from the MGB the right side tie rod ends (inner and outer) must be dissembled. The steering shaft or pinion can be withdrawn towards the front of the car once the top plate and rack tensioner, along with the bearing cover are removed. These parts can be cleaned with mineral spirits and wiped dry. Inspect the pinion bushing along with the rack bushing that is retained in the right hand side and renew as necessary. It is also a good idea to disassemble the left side inner tie rod end if the amount of grit is substantial. Assembly is straightforward with the rack inserted first and then the pinion in its proper position in relation to the flat at the steering universal and the center of the rack. Finally fitting new gaiters and sealing with approximately 8 ounces of 90w gear oil will ensure miles of carefree driving!

(Q): What can I use on my black rubber bumpers to make them look better?
(A): The 1975 to 1980 rubber bumpers turn a light shade of gray and lose their deep black color after years of weather. The only process that I have found that works is to paint them and you can do this with the bumpers on the vehicle if you are careful to mask properly. First clean the bumpers with a quality grease and wax remover, then sand with 600 grit, or use a scuff pad over the entire surface. Wash the bumpers again using new towels and wax remover. Krylon semi-gloss black paint is just about perfect for the correct color. Spray the first coat on dry watching for "fish eyes" (silicone contamination). lf the first coat is good then proceed with the final coats until a uniform finish is obtained. The bumpers can be waxed along with the car color once the paint has cured.

(We've had several letters on rubher bumper maintenance recently, most asking for advice. Jim's treatment is the more drastic of several methods. Let me give you a couple of secrets that the concours boys used in England, provided that the bumpers are not too far gone in the first place! First, to maintain what little shine that might still be left, you might try Vaseline, and it has also been proved that Waxoyl, judiciously applied, can bring back some of the deep gloss. You don't need a lot of either, but like in the services you have to polish and polish to get that lasting shine! If the bumpers are not too bad and have not yet gone quite gray try a little black boot polish and a little saliva! Remember "spit and polish "? Again not too much and work it into the bumper until it looks an even color all over. Then rub with a soft lint-free cloth to shine it up. If any other Register members have found an alternative to the methods we have given, maybe they'd like to tell us about it? -Ed.)

BRAKES

OVERHEATING FRONT BRAKES - MGB: Unless a rebuilder has incorrectly re-assembled the calipers, the pistons will ALWAYS return. A failure to release pressure on the calipers is due to collapsed front brake hoses (not a visual inspection), or an incorrectly adjusted brake light switch at the pedal.

BRAKE HOSES: While the exterior of Lockheed hoses may crack and disintegrate, it is the INSIDE DIAMETER which gives the greatest problem. These flex lines collapse over time. Master cylinder pressure easily pushes the fluid through the line, but wheel cylinder/caliper pressure is not enough to return the fluid, hence the brakes remain ON for a while. This is also, frequently, true with the clutch line.

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CARBURETORS, FUEL SYSTEM, EMISSIONS

MGB MANUAL CHOKE CONVERSION: Too long for posting, I have a nice article "Those Damned Zenith Strombergs" that helps in diagnosis of faults. In the end, of course, this autochoke can be renewed for flawless operation. Consider originality. Send me your Email address and I can send the information. E-mail to: Mr. John Twist.

CHOKE CABLE ABUTMENT: As odd as it may seem to the novice, the MGB and MGC choke cables are held fixed at their ends. It is the outer housing, the sheath, which moves against the choke cable abutment. Throttle linkages are arranged as this in at least some Morgans.

MILES PER GALLON: Expect 25mpg in all MGs, but Strombergs, in the right circumstance, can give much greater figures. If the figures are low, ensure a good tune -- and CHANGE THE CARB NEEDLES and JETS.

WEBER INSTALLATION to FIT BRAKE SERVO: It is possible to fit a remote servo on either single or dual circuit brakes. This was common on the home models which didn't have dual circuit brakes

DAMPER OIL: The oil used in the CARBURETTER DAMPERS is engine oil - we use 20/50.

REBUILT CARBS - HIGH IDLE: Rebuilt carbs should, of course, be free from error, and perhaps they are. Loosen one of the four nuts (4BA) on the two accordian shaped couplers. Unscrew all three adjuster screws until they have no effect on the speed. Listen to each carb to find the one still drawing air. Remove that carb and reposition the throttle disc.

WEBER or DUAL SU's: If you MUST replace your Stromberg, the Weber is an often suggested replacement. Properly fitted the MG will perform very nicely. But remember, if God had wanted Italian parts on MGs, then He would have made Kimber work a deal with Mussolini. Besides, most Webers stall on heavy acceleration from idle.

TF1500 FAILING TO REV: If the needle and jet are too worn, then the mixture can become too rich at higher speeds. If the fuel supply is NOT the problem, try jets and GJ(?)needles.

EVAPORATIVE LOSS CONTROL - ELC - 77B: Fresh air enters the large black hose at the radiator diaphragm, travels through the anti run-on valve, through the charcoal ADsorption canister, into the restricted port on the valve cover, out of the engine from the front tappet inspection cover and into the breather on the carburetter. This system was in place from 1972 - 1980. It is a good system and nothing is gained by its removal. As the tube on the front tappet inspection cover is 1/2" and the brass tube on the carb between 5/16" and 3/8", I simply push a 18" length of 5/16 hose into an 8" piece of 1/2" hose with help from some silicone lubricant or some oil. Now it is easily connected!

LATE MODEL MGB FUEL HOSES: Change them to modern American fuel line BEFORE you drive your car again! These old lines not only develop pin holes, but rupture along their length! VERY VERY DANGEROUS. Also, plumb out the "roll over valve" as these are now all leaking (some safety device!).

HOSES - TUBES - LINES for the 77 - 80 MGB: Hose from the radiator diaphragm to the bottom side of the anti run-on valve. Hose from the anti run-on valve to the charcoal ADsorption canister. Hose from the canister to the valve cover. Hose from the front tappet inspection cover to the rear of the Stromberg carb. Hose from the canister to the fuel tank purge line (steel - right there). Hose from the canister to a steel line across the valve cover, to the vent fitting on the rear of the Stromberg. Hose from the intake manifold directly to the anti run-on valve. Hose from the intake manifold to a "T" to the gulp valve. From the T a hose goes to the TCSA switch on the brake master cylinder housing, and from that transmission controlled spark advance switch to the distributor. Hose from the small fitting on the top of the carb to the EGR valve just to its rear.

MGA PETROL SENDING UNIT GASKETS: The new and improved rubber gaskets are only new. They expand and then leak. Original cork gaskets are to be soaked in oil, then fitted. That's too slow for the shop -- we use Permatex #2. DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALANTS!!

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CLUTCH, TRANSMSSION, DRIVETRAIN

MGB OVERDRIVES: Both the three synchro and four synchro gearboxes are available as overdrives. However, in each case, there are many parts required for a conversion besides the overdrive unit -- intermediate housings, mainshafts, etc. If you want an overdrive gearbox, buy a complete unit. I have several, in fact, rebuilt. The earlier 4 synchro OD has a top fill, just as the complementary non OD gearboxes; the later (74 1/2 on) have a side fill. Both require 20W50 ENGINE OIL! The former drives the speedo at 1280 turns per mile; the latter at 1000 tpm. This number is also indicated on the bottom RH face of the speedo.

GEARBOX 90 DEGREE DRIVE: These were fitted on all the non overdrive MGBs. Because of their high cost ($75?) we simply remove them and fit an overdrive cable, ensuring that the radius of the cable at the bottom is as large as possible.

1974 MGB OD SPEEDO CABLE: If the speedo is NOT working, start at the gearbox. Does the pinion gear move when you rotate the drive shaft? Does the speedo cable transfer this rotation? The most common problem is that the driving or driven gear is wiped clean of teeth. Too bad. Pinion gears are HARD to find; the driving gear requires OD disassembly (engine out!). A frozen speedo can cause the gears to strip. The easiest problem is that the diamond made by the end of the cable (years ago it was squared) is too small and the cable just freewheels inside the square on the end of the gear. Use a dolly and hammer and make the diamond just a little longer.

OVERDRIVE on an MGB: This coveted option offers "POM." Peace of Mind. After you run with one for a while, you'll never want to go back to std 4th. But, there is little, if any, savings in engine wear or mileage.

MGA CLUTCH: Remove the engine only, NOT the whole works. To re- install you DO need the alignment tool to properly centralise the disc. If you remove the engine/gearbox assy, you may not need the tool, but I would use it in the interest of time. If you have the gearbox out, be certain to change the rear gearbox bushing -- it presses in and out from the RIGHT! The TD/TD/A used the ten spline first motion shaft. The latest As and all the Bs use the 23 involute spline ( a superior piece ). It is possible to fit the MGB clutch assy to the MGA.

CLUTCH HYDRAULICS: Rebuild the master and slave at the same time - always. If the slave is bad it leaks, if it leaks it's bad. If the slave does not leak, it's OK. If the master cylinder leaks, it's bad -- BUT, it need not leak externally to be faulty! Commonly, a faulty master cylinder is first noticed as the clutch re-engages even thought the pedal is on the floor. Rebuild the master cylinder in place. DO NOT hone the aluminium cylinder. Rebuild the slave cylinder after removing it from the bell housing -- it is fine to hone it a bit. Once THOROUGHLY CLEAN, reassemble with brake grease (Girling SP 1280?), and bleed. Bleeder out, use finger, for first five bleeds. Finger off, pedal down, finger on, pedal up, wait 20 SECONDS... then repeat. After five strokes, brake fluid will gush from the bleeder hole. Replace the bleeder (instead of the finger) and bleed several more times, quickly. All done.

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ELECTRICAL and WIRING

1977 MGB ELECTRICS: Several peculiar problems are common with the 1977 MGB. First, the electric cooling fans were wired to the BROWN circuit. This allowed the fans to run for up to 20 minutes AFTER the car was shut off! The wiring was changed in 1978 to the WHITE/BROWN circuit, allowing them to run only when the key was ON. Second, the ignition WAS wired through the ignition relay. This was changed in 1978 but the relay continued to be called the ignition relay. In the 1977's, it is possible, if the anti run-on system is NOT working, to have the engine continue to run for up to a minute, ignition switch turned OFF and key in your palm. Also, in the 1977 - 1980 models, a failure of the brake warning light diode can allow the engine to start when the handbrake is pulled UP!

IGNITION LIGHT OPERATION with a DYNAMO: The ignition light is connected to the battery on one side and the "D" terminal of the dynamo on the other. When the dynamo either produces little or no voltage, or when it produces a great voltage, the light will illuminate. The former case is due to a faulty dynamo or control box, the latter a faulty control box or faulty earth connexion at the box.

AMMETERS and VOLTMETERS: Except in the RAREST of circumstances, the ignition warning light indicates any problem with the charging. AMMETERS properly connected into alternator circuits provide at least two more connections which can corrode and cause the alternator to fail. Buy some driving gloves instead.

GROUNDING (EARTHING) MGB EARTH STRAP: A fixture at the left front motor mount from 1956 thru 1974, it was moved to the RH gearbox mount in 1974/2 to 1979, then it moved to the firewall to the rear engine bearing plate in 1980.

IGNITION WARNING LIGHT: This lamp indicates the difference in voltage between the battery and the generator/dynamo. It should illuminate when the ignition is turned on, and should be completely extinguished over 1000 rpm. In the case of glowing more and more brightly then "winking out," the problem is the voltage regulator or the regulator's ground connection. In the case of an alternator ('68 on) a dimly illuminated ignition light at higher speed indicates a faulty diode in the rectifier.

TWIN SIX VOLT BATTERIES: The modern Group 26 Battery will fit into the passenger box on the MGAs and MGBs and offer MORE ENERGY than the twin sixes. Of the many items which truly are NEW and IMPROVED, batteries are among the top. So much more energy can be stored in the same volume than in the fifties. The twelve volt batteries use modern technology. The sixes are still built the "old way" and are not improved. I urge my customers to use the single twelve. Me? I run twin sixes, positive earth, with Lucas Helmet clamps -- I have no option -- I belong to the Positive Earth Club.

MGB BATTERY: The twin six volts may be upgraded to the Group 26 battery which will fit right into the passenger box. MOVE the earth cable to that box!

JUMP STARTING an MG: Always jump battery positive to positive, negative to negative, no matter how the car is earthed. Jumping will not damage an MG with a generator, but can ruin the alternator. Therefore, slowly charge the alternatored MGs, or disconnect the alternator during jumping.

BRAKE LIGHTS INOP: Textbook case, faulty earth. When the parking lights are off, the brake lights find their earth through the front parking lights. When the lights are on, the brake lights cannot find earth.

GLOWING HEADLAMPS: A glowing headlamp is a textbook case of a faulty earth. Find ALL the black bullet wire ends. Brush them clean. Fit NEW Lucas female connectors (two - four or six way). Add an extra earth wire to one or more of these Lucas females.

VOLTAGE STABILISER: The voltage stabiliser powers two instruments at the most: Petrol gauge and Temperature gauge. Test this unit by inserting your 12v test light into the GREEN/BLUE temperature transmitter wire at the front of the engine. With the key ON and the test light earthed, the light will glow for about 20 seconds then begin winking ON OFF ON OFF like a slow turn signal. The stabiliser rarely fails but sometimes comes loose, which causes these instruments to read high. A failure of ALL the dash gauges is simply a dirty fuse (third down) in the fusebox.

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ENGINE

STUCK STARTER MOTOR: All MGs but the MGB 68 - up and MGC use a crash type starter. Because the engine always shuts off with the pistons about horizontal, wear occurs on the flywheel in two spots, 180 degrees apart. Eventually the wear on these teeth becomes so great that the starter pinion fails to engage the flywheel teeth but "climbs" onto them. The EASIEST way to solve the immediate problem is to push the car BACKWARDS while in FOURTH, ignition off, of course. Pushing it forwards makes the problem worse. The only real solution is to replace the ring gear. This is true from TC - Midget 1500.

MGB CYLINDER HEAD CRACKS: ALWAYS fit hardened inserts to AT LEAST the exhaust seats. The end mill operation removes the tiny cracks.

MGA ENGINES: That 1500 engine was used in many applications. While the bore and stroke remains the same, the valve size and the cam profile changes from application to application. Any 1500 engine can be rebuilt to high performance specifications, but if there is no rev counter drive, you'll have to fit an electric tachometer (65-67 MGB or Midget). Those engines are often prefixed: BP for "B" series and "P"ushrod.

OIL FILTERS: FELT or PAPER: I ALWAYS use the felt elements, MGA/MGB/MGC/Midget/TD/TF/1100/1300 instead of the paper because I believe they are better filters. Only once have I seen a filter so poorly installed that the oil outlet became plugged and the engine failed. However, the upside down filter on the 1968->1970 MGBs and MGCs was a tradgedy! The MGBs are easily converted to spin on top loads as the later cars. Not so with the MGC. Best to fix a starter switch under the dash so that you can spin the starter motor to achieve oil pressure BEFORE starting the car. Or, install a kill switch on the distributor so that the engine cannot start until released.

PULLING an MGB ENGINE: Disconnect the gearbox from the engine, and swing the engine out the front. Position the engine lifting chain on the two 5/16 studs which hold the valve cover nuts. Place the chain over the stud and place LARGE washers over the chain, and TIGHTEN the nut so the stud will not bend. This may sound creepy or not substantial, but it is the way I've pulled engines for twenty five years.

OIL CONSUMPTION: Engine oil consumption is cause by leaks or burning. If the engine leaks, it is very evident by the oil slick on the floor. Oil burning is caused by: pressurised engine; faulty valve guide seals; or faulty rings. Ensure that the engine can breath between the oil filler cap and the front tappet inspection cover. Burning through the valve guide seals evidences itself at idle and deceleration (CLOUDS of smoke). Fit Felpro SS70373 umbrella oil seals (for the MGA and MGB) - this can be done without removing the head. But, sadly, most oil burning is caused by bad oil control rings. Fitting rings/rod bearings/pump to an MGA or MGB is about a ten hour job.

MGB WEEPING CYLINDER HEAD: The rule is, all rebuilt B series engines weep between the block and head, between the 2nd and 3rd spark plug. Some actually piss. To remedy this problem: That center exposed head stud, RH side, between #2 and #3 is the guide stud -- the hole in the head is 3/8 whereas the other holes are 7/16. Clean out the stud hole in the head with a 3/8 drill. Polish that stud, at least. Ensure a chamfer at the threaded hole in the block. Chase the threads on the stud, nut, and block (3/8-18 and 3/8-24). Ensure the head is planed to 0.001." Ensure that the top of the block is cleaned to a SMOOTH finish. Fit the studs back into the block with only about 5 lb-ft torque. Place a THIN film of clear silicone, RTV, sealant on the RH side of the head gasket. Into that EXTREMELY THIN film, place two strands of stranded, flexible wire about six inches long, twisted together, along the outboard side of the gasket, between its edge and the water jacket holes so that the thickness of the head gasket is effectively increased by several thousandths. Goodbye leaks.

MGB FRONT CRANKSHAFT PULLEY: Excessive wear or rust on the seal surface can be corrected by fitting a CR (Chicago Rawhide) Speedi Sleeve available from your local bearing or truck parts store.

MGB ENGINE TEMPERATURE: Let me suggest that a better operating temperature for all our engines is about 190F. I do believe that 160F is too cold and requires use of a richer mixture.

BALANCING ENGINES: I have rebuilt hundreds of MGA and MGB engines and have never concerning myself with balancing. Never have I seen an engine failure that I would attribute to lack of balance.

CYLINDER HEAD AIR INJECTION PORTS: This is a 7/16-20 UNF or SAE thread into the cylinder head. You can use hex driven allen screws, grub or set screws, 1/2" long to give the cylinder head a finished look after removing the air injection manifold.

COMPRESSION: Do not trust your compression gauge for accuracy, but only for precision. Look for a range of no greater than 10%. If an engine has lain fallow for more than several months, always run the engine for ten minutes or so BEFORE judging the compression.

RAISING COMPRESSION: There is a balance between engine compression and octane requirements. I have found that 8:0 : 1 is the best all round ratio to achieve. If the engine has a higher compression than the gasoline octane can support, more heat is created, and less power.

ROCKER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL: Design, engineering, and good mechanical sense does not allow for the rocker assembly to be removed from the A or B series engines without replacing the head gasket. However, after EXTENSIVE FIELD experimentation, I can assure you that removing the rocker assy poses no threat to the head gasket. But remove the 5/16 nuts on the studs, THEN the 3/8 head nuts.

STARTING an ENGINE AFTER a REBUILD: Remove the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter motor until oil pressure is indicated. THEN start the engine.

FITTING FELPRO SEALS to the VALVE GUIDES: Completely loosen ALL the rockers and remove from the shaft #1 and #8. Remove the plugs. In the case of the number one cylinder: Rotate the engine so that it is possible to slide the #2 rocker rearwards, then turn it 90 degrees; feed as much cotton clothsline into the #1 cylinder as possible; rotate the engine until that line is squished up against the bottom of the valves; use a pair of screwdrivers and lever down the top spring plate while your associate picks out the collets or keepers. Easy!

SLIPPED TIMING CHAIN: Timing chains DO NOT jump teeth. It just doesn't happen. Check your valve timing: With #7 fully open, set #2 at 0.055". Rotate the engine until the #2 rocker just contacts the #2 valve stem (use a piece of paper). You will find your timing mark on the front pulley at TDC.

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DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR POSITION: Find top dead center, number one firing, by examining the rockers with the valve cover off, or by using one's index finger on the #1 spark plug hole while pushing the MG forward (#1 fires at the end of the compression stroke, which will blow one's finger off the hole). Use the timing marks to be certain the engine is at TDC. Remove the distributor and clamping plate. Thread a LONG 5/16"-24 stud into the centre of the distributor drive gear (find the stud in the air cleaner assy, twin SU models). Remove the slotted screw holding the distributor housing, and withdraw that part. Pull the distributor drive gear from the engine. After THROUGHLY CLEANING AND GREASING THE GEAR AND HOUSING, drop the gear back into the engine, keyway offset below horizontal, large half of the driving dog upmost, with the keyway 9:00 to 3:00. As the gear drops into place, it will rotate anti-clockwise and set in at about 2:00-8:00. The rotor should then face 1-2:00.

MGA IGNITION TIMING: The manual asks for 5 to 7 degrees BTDC. This equals about 20 degrees BTDC at "tickover" which is about 800 rpm. The micro-adjuster on the distributor allows field testing. Advance until you can get it to ping -- then back it off so it doesn't. Eleven clicks to one degree.

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WINDSCREEN WIPER WHEELBOX THREADS: If the gentle application of heat to the hex or oct nut on the wheelbox fails, then it is necessary to cut the nut off, allowing the hack saw blade to run parallel to the threads, slicing a crescent from the nut. Once the wheelboxes are out of the car (use a 3/16" socket to remove the nuts from the rear plates), then use a thread file or a new nut to "restore" the faulty threads.

WIPER MOTOR REPAIRS: The same old rules apply. Clean everything thoroughly, and it will work. If the armature is burned, find a shop to rewind it. Give up? My shop does wiper motor repairs.

MIDGET DOOR HINGES: The bottom door hinge on the Midget loves to begin to rust solid. When this begins, the hinge flange flexes on the body and the metal at the pillar fails. Lubricate these hinges frequently. If they are REALLY tight, remove the door, heat the hinge and oil it until it is floppy loose.

MGA RADIO ANTENNA (or is that an aerial?): They were often fixed at the REAR of the vehicle during that time, and swept rearwards, as though not to disturb the aerodynamics.

MODERN RADIO IN + EARTH MG: The easiest way out is to convert the MG to negative earth. Three steps: reverse the battery(ies); polarise the dynamo; reverse the coil leads. That's it! The next easiest is with the "voltage converter" which supplies 24 volts+. The difference in voltage between the 24v+ and the 12v+ earth is 12 volts. The next (and a dangerous way) is to attempt isolation. My positive earth MGA does not have a radio. The sound of the engine is music enough to my ears. And, you can always wear a walkman.

STROMBERG EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: Few of the "newer" reinforced manifolds have cracked. Virtually none of the non-catalytic converter manifolds have cracked. When refitting the manifold, it is IMPERATIVE, to refit and re- position the exhaust, and tie the exhaust to the Engine/Gearbox. I have had great success in brazing cracked (not broken) manifolds.

RUBBER TO CHROME CONVERSION: Why? If you want a chrome bumpered MGB, buy a chrome bumpered MGB. If you want to lower your rubber bumpered MGB, then purchase the shorter front springs and de-cambered(?) leaf springs. We converted a rubber bumper to chrome bumper years ago, under strict instructions from our customer. It was hideously expensive, and for what?

TOOLS: Remember that a FIRE EXTINGUISHER is an important addition to your toolbox. If you are a REAL LBC fanatic your toolbox should be filled with spanners etc made by BRITOOL!

EXHAUST LEAKS: An exhaust leak at the joint between the head and manifold CAN sound like rapping metal. Use a piece of 1/2" heater hose held near the ear and listen while the engine is running.

REAR END NOISES: Loose flanges: Clinks - Clunks
Loose U joint: Clink - Clunk - Ringing
Frozen U Joint: High pitched reciprocal squeak at start up to 20mph
Dislodged oil seal flange on diff: reciprocal squeak changing from accel to deceleration
Loose Pinion: Change in diff sound between accel - float - decel -- there should be NO fore and aft / up and down freeplay in the pinion.
Worn Crown Wheel and Pinion: wow wow wow wow wow wow (You'll say WOW too when you consider the replacement price)
Loose Shock: Clunk over bumps
Loose Shock Link: Cluck Cluck over bumps
Drum too close to backing plate: squeak or shhhh going around corners
Bad Hub bearing: Tch Tch Tch often heard reflected by a building or guard rail sometimes exacerbated by turning
Worn/missing washers on pinion/differential wheels: Clunk Clunk accelerating and decelerating
Bad Wire Wheel splines: Clonk Clonk accelerating and decelerating
Loose tools and things in boot: Clank Jingle Kathunk over bumps

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STEERING WHEEL NUT: MGAs and early MGBs, as well as early Midgets use 1 5/16". I tighten them by feel but guess its about 30 lb-ft. To remove a steering wheel, back the nut off to the end of the treads. Person #1 sits in the vehicle with a double faced hammer in his left hand, head on the nut while gripping the hammer and the wheel at about 8:00. He also grips the wheel at 12:00 with the right hand; and he jams his knees under the wheel at 6:00. At all three positions he tries to pull the wheel off. Person #2 has a LARGE hammer (3lb eg) and strikes #1's hammer. Never hit #1's hammer until Person #1 says "Again." The wheel will pop loose after several solids hits.

TOP COLUMN BUSHING: Especially on the 1970 - 1976 MGBs, these come loose, wear out, and need grease. Remove the steering wheel, remove the column covers and switches, remove the "C" clip on the column within the bushing recess, remove the screws that hold the bushing to the top of the column and withdraw the bushing. Peen the aluminium housing around the ball bearing race, liberally (I use that word with great caution) grease the bearing, reduce the diameter of the end of the column with large pliers, and reassemble. You will have eliminated that nasty movement.

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TORQUE STEERING: All Midgets have torque steering to some degree, few of the other MGs have it. The loose rear axle steers the MG from the rear -- just like a highlow. Tightening the U bolts usually takes care of the problem - BUT, the U bolts are often too rusty to simply tighten. So, remove one nut at a time, stack four 3/8 flat washers under the nut, and draw the nut up to its original location.

DAMPER OIL: The oil used in the SHOCKS is hydraulic oil with a seal sweller and an anti-foaming agent - original was about 20 weight, we use 50. One trick is to remove the shock from the car, drain it, refill it with this stiff fluid and WOW, it'll grip the road like a limpet (catfood).

WHEEL SPLINES: When the splines are new, they're sharp; when they're worn, they're rounded; when they're REALLY shot, they're sharp again. Measure the spline diameter to find 2.450" NEW, and 2.400 ABSOLUTE minimum for safety. Have an associate stand on the brake pedal and attempt to rotate all four tires BEFORE you tighten the spinners. There should be NO freeplay. Both the hubs and the wheel splines wear; check the wheel splines by sliding your finger, from the outside, in along the splines. You will feel a reduced diameter at the inside lip. Make a value judgement based on the five wheels you check.

WIRE WHEELS: The splines must be lubricated, but use silver coloured anti-seize instead of nasty, gooey, black grease. Both will travel through the spoke holes, but the silver does not discolour the wheels. For that matter, it is possible to smear the inside of the hub with RTV silicone sealant to prevent the lubricant to escape. Of course, now the water that gets inside will not be able to escape either. The knockoffs need only be tightened with several monster blows with the hammer. Watch old racing movies to see what the mechanics did in the pits -- just a couple of swings and off they went. The new Clark&Clark wire wheel wrench gets the spinners plenty tight without damaging the wings.

PAINTING WIRE WHEELS: When we repaint wires we: remove the tire, tube, and "rubber band;" sandblast the rim; coat with self etching primer; paint with 1976 Ford Grenada Silver; clearcoat; remount and balance. It's a lot of work!

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